SKU: 22126047096
50 lb wildflower seed

50 lb wildflower seed MIDWEST WILDFLOWER MIX

Sale price$25.84 Regular price$28.71
Save 10%

Pay in installments of $7.18 with ShopPay, AfterPay and Klarna

Shipping Estimate
USA
  • USA
  • CAN

Ships within 48 hours · Estimated delivery Oct 25 - Oct 30

Promo Codes Available:

For Your Every Summer RSVP, with Code: SUMMER15

Description

50 lb wildflower seed MIDWEST WILDFLOWER MIXMidwest Wildflower Seed Mix is formulated for IL, IN, IA, eastern KS, KYml, MI, MN, MO, eastern NE, OH, WI, southern Manitoba, and Ontario. This wildflower seed mix is blended to give the widest possible range of colors and periods of bloom.~~~ Midwest Wildflower Seed Mix is formulated for IL, IN, IA, eastern KS, KY, MI, MN, MO, eastern NE, OH, WI, southern Manitoba, and Ontario. This wildflower seed mix is blended to give the widest possible range of

Midwest Wildflower Seed Mix is formulated for IL, IN, IA, eastern KS, KYml, MI, MN, MO, eastern NE, OH, WI, southern Manitoba, and Ontario. This wildflower seed mix is blended to give the widest possible range of colors and periods of bloom.~~~

Midwest Wildflower Seed Mix is formulated for IL, IN, IA, eastern KS, KY, MI, MN, MO, eastern NE, OH, WI, southern Manitoba, and Ontario. This wildflower seed mix is blended to give the widest possible range of colors and periods of bloom. Very few wildflowers bloom continually throughout the season, therefore we have included spring, summer, and fall blooming species in each mixture. Colors include blue, purple, red, white, yellow and pink. Mix heights vary from 10 in. to 8 ft.

Product Information

  • Application or Use: Ornamental, Lawn, Cover Crop, Erosion Control
  • Germination Time: 14 - 21 days, under optimal conditions
  • Growing Locations: Transition Zone & Cool Season
  • Height: 2 - 4 feet
  • Sunlight Requirements: 8+ hours, full sun for best results
  • Advantages: Perfectly blended for the Midwest U.S.
  • When to Plant: See Instructions Tab.

**This mix is Non-GMO**

This mix contains the following seed. *Mixture is subject to change depending on seed availability*

  • Lanceleaf Coreopsis
  • Purple Coneflower
  • Blue Flax
  • California Poppy
  • Clasping Coneflower
  • Plains Coreopsis
  • Calendula
  • Black Eyed Susan
  • Rocket Larkspur
  • Mixed Colors Corn Poppy

This mix may vary depending on harvest and availability.


*Product packaging may appear different than what is pictured. ~~~

 Wildflower Planting Time Based on Region:

Southeast

  • Fall, Winter: Sowing wildflowers in Fall/Winter is the ideal time in the Southeast, with October 1 – December 31 being the best dates. The weather is ideal for starting seeds, and seedlings can grow and harden off before frost.
  • Spring: A good time to plant wildflowers, especially annual species that flower quickly. Plant after the last frost date when soil temperatures have warmed to around 55°F, typically occurring within a month or so after the final frost of winter; this ensures the seeds can germinate properly without being affected by cold weather.
  • Summer: You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

Southwest

  • Fall: A good time to plant spring wildflowers in the desert Southwest. Fall's cooler temperatures and seasonal rains help seeds germinate. In the mountains, you can plant after spring frosts.
  • Winter: In areas that get snow, winter seeding can give seeds an advantage in the spring. 
  • Spring: A popular time to plant wildflowers in most states. You can plant after the last frost and when the soil temperature is at least 55°F. In warmer climates, you can plant at the end of the rainy season.
  • Summer: You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

Northeast

  • Fall, Winter: The best time to plant wildflowers in the Northeast is in late fall, after the first frost but before heavy snow. This is known as dormant seeding and can take place from November to December. Cold temperatures and damp soil during the winter help wildflower seeds germinate. 
  • Spring: Plant in early spring, after the ground has thawed and soil temperatures reach around 55-65°F. This is a popular time to plant wildflowers because it's typically rainier, which helps water seedlings. 
  • Summer: You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

Midwest

  • Fall, Winter: Plant in late fall (November–December) after the first frost. The seeds will overwinter and germinate in the spring. Fall planting is a good option for cooler climates and can give the seeds an early start in the spring. 
  • Spring: Plant in early spring (April–May) after the last frost when the soil temperature is consistently above 55°F. Spring is a popular time to plant because the soil is usually moist from rain, and you can see the wildflowers grow right away.
  • Summer: You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

Western

  • Fall, Winter: Plant in late fall (November–December) after the first frost. The seeds will overwinter and germinate in the spring. Fall planting is a good option for cooler climates and can give the seeds an early start in the spring. 
  • Spring: Plant in early spring (April–May) after the last frost when the soil temperature is consistently above 55°F. Spring is a popular time to plant because the soil is usually moist from rain, and you can see the wildflowers grow right away.
  • Summer: You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

Pacific Northwest

  • Fall, Winter: Plant in late fall (November–December) after the first frost. The seeds will overwinter and germinate in the spring. Fall planting is a good option for cooler climates and can give the seeds an early start in the spring. 
  • Spring: Plant in early spring (April–May) after the last frost when the soil temperature is consistently above 55°F. Spring is a popular time to plant because the soil is usually moist from rain, and you can see the wildflowers grow right away.
  • Summer: In cooler zones with higher elevation, you can plant wildflowers in late spring to early summer, after the risk of frost has passed. You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

More on wildflower mixtures and plantings:

Our wildflower mixtures are formulated on the basis of climatic conditions (rainfall, temperature range, humidity) and elevation. Most species in our mixtures adapt readily to different soil types, provided climate and elevation are suitable. Annuals have been included to establish cover quickly and to give color the first year; some may produce new plants the following year (the biennials may also reseed). Perennial plants live for more than two years, and most flower from the second year onward.

These mixtures are blended to give the widest possible range of colors and periods of bloom. Very few wildflowers bloom continually throughout the season; therefore, we have included Spring, Summer and Fall-blooming species in each mixture. Colors include blue, purple, red, white, yellow and pink. Mix heights vary from 10 in. to 8 ft.

In general, our mixtures are formulated to contain approximately equal numbers of seeds of each species. This varies somewhat because of costs, availability and/or climatic conditions. Mixtures may vary occasionally from the indicated listing, based on availability of individual species.

Seed Quality:

Most wildflower seeds and mixtures have a purity of 95 to 99% and total viable seed percentages of between 70 to 95%. The total viable seed percent is the germination percent, plus the hard seed or dormant seed percent. Hard seeds have impermeable seed coats and cannot imbibe water during seed testing. Dormant seeds are viable seeds that have specific physical or physiological conditions that prevent the seed from germinating at the time of seed testing. The PLS (Pure Live Seed) is obtained by multiplying the percent purity by the percent total viable seed and then dividing by 100.

Uses of Grasses:

Wildflowers can be sown alone or with grasses. For most areas of the United States, we recommend using one of our native grass mixtures. For specific requirements, individual species may be preferred. Hard Fescue or Sheep Fescue work well in most areas of the United States. However, in the southeastern states of Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Louisiana, Mississippi and South Carolina, we recommend warm-season grasses; Hard and Sheep Fescue will not thrive in these climates.

Warm-season grasses to consider include Gramas, Buffalo Grass and Bluestems. These grasses grow very slowly and are planted for aesthetic and ecological reasons rather than prompt stabilization of soil.

Aggressive grasses should be avoided because they will crowd out most wildflowers; these grasses include Kentucky Bluegrass, Smooth Brome, Crested Wheatgrass, Bermuda Grass, and Annual Rye. If wildflowers must be used with these grasses, the flowers should be planted in high-density patches as accents to the grassed areas. Or the flowers may be sown with the grasses if the planting rates of the grasses are reduced significantly.~~~

Plant at a rate of 40 to 44 lbs. per acre (1 lb. per 1,000 sq. ft.).

Sowing wildflower seeds without care and planning usually produces unsatisfactory results. Here are some important factors to consider: Does the site support plants now? If you have a site where nothing, including weeds, is growing, that site is unlikely to support wildflowers. Will there be adequate moisture during germination and establishment? Can you supply supplemental water, if necessary? What weed seeds are likely to be present in the soil? Will weeds spread to your site from adjacent areas? Assessment of these factors will enable you to make a realistic choice of a site where wildflowers will prosper and to decide what action will be necessary to ensure your success.

When to Plant:

The best time to plant in your area depends on the climate and rainfall patterns as well as the species you are planting. In cool climates, plant annuals, perennials or mixtures of annuals and perennials in Spring, early Summer or late Fall. Fall plantings should be late enough so that seeds do not germinate until Spring. Perennials can also be sown in early fall provided that there are at least 10 to 12 weeks of growing time before the plants go dormant for the Winter. Late Fall plantings are advantageous when supplemental irrigation cannot be provided and adequate rainfall is anticipated in the spring.

In mild climates, plant during the cooler months of the year, fall through spring, for best results. Fall plantings done prior to periods of rainfall will insure an early display of flowers the following Spring.

Site Preparation:

Proper site preparation is important for prompt germination of seed and healthy growth of seedlings. Best results will be obtained by planting on cleared ground. Remove existing vegetation to avoid competition from other plants. This may be done by pulling, tilling under, spraying with a general herbicide, or by a combination of these methods, depending upon the size of the area, type and density of vegetation and other factors. Loosen soil by scraping, tilling or scarifying. Tilling should be utilized only when soil is very compacted and further weed control measures can be taken. Specific recommendations are given under the heading, Weed Control.

Seed Application:

Method of application depends on the size of the area and the terrain. On small areas, broadcast seeds evenly either by hand or by use of a drop or cyclone spreader. It is helpful to mix a carrier such as clean, dry sand with the seed; sand adds volume and aids in even distribution. We recommend using a ratio of 1 or 2 parts sand to 1 part seed. Rake in lightly, covering seeds to a maximum depth of 2 to 3 times their thickness. Or drag the area lightly with a piece of chain link fence to mix the seed into the surface of the soil. For seeding large areas, i.e., over one acre, specially-designed drills are most effective. Drill to a maximum of 1/4 in. and firm soil with a cultipacker. This maximizes seed-to-soil contact. Hydroseeders are also effective, especially for steep slopes, rocky terrain and other areas where conditions make it impractical for other methods of seed application.

Hydroseeding is the application of a slurry of seed and water to soil. The slurry may also contain mulch (hydromulching), a tackifier and fertilizer. Mulches are made of wood fiber, paper or excelsior, and their purpose is to hold seeds in place, help retain moisture and provide protection from erosion (mulches are usually dyed green as a visual aid in even distribution). Rates of application for most mulches are between 1,500 and 2,300 pounds per acre. In general, hydroseeding or hydromulching is most successful in moist climates or in irrigated areas.

Most authorities agree that germination is better when seed is applied first with 5 to 10% of the mulching fiber; the balance of the mulch being applied separately as a second step. This approach ensures optimal seed-to-soil contact. Otherwise, many seeds are wasted because they become suspended in the fiber.

It is important that proper procedures are followed to minimize the amount of time that seed is circulated through pumps or paddles prior to application. Overcirculation may damage the seed.

Moisture:

All seeds, including wildflowers, need ample moisture to germinate and to develop into healthy seedlings. Best results will be obtained by soaking the planted areas thoroughly and maintaining consistent moisture for 4 to 6 weeks, then gradually reduce waterings. In non-irrigated situations, plant in the Spring or before periods of anticipated rainfall. After seedlings are established, watering may be reduced depending on the climate and rainfall. In arid climates or during drought conditions, up to 1/2 in. of supplemental water per week may be required to maintain an optimal display. If weeds are present, remember that they benefit from moisture as much as the wildflowers and may dominate over-watered areas.

Fertilization:

Many wildflowers benefit from some fertilization if the soil does not have adequate nutrients. Some wildflowers do fine in poor soils, while others require a more fertile environment. We recommend that a soil test be performed when soil quality is unknown. If the soil needs improvement, use a low nitrogen fertilizer with a 5-10-10 ratio or add organic matter such as weed-free straw or grass clippings, well-rotted compost, peat moss, or leaf mold. In addition to adding nutrients, organic materials enhance soil structure and encourage beneficial microorganisms. Avoid over-fertilizing which may promote weed growth and lush foliage rather than flowers.

Weed Control:

Weed control is the biggest problem facing plant establishment, and one which has no easy solution. Weed seeds are present in many situations and lie dormant, but viable, for long periods. A weedy area converted to wildflowers will have a large reservoir of weed seeds in the soil, ready to germinate when conditions are favorable. In most cases, it is advisable to consider weed control in two phases—as part of site preparation prior to planting, and as an important component of the post-germination maintenance program.

Before planting, remove existing weeds by pulling, tilling under, applying a glyphosate herbicide such as RoundUp, or by a combination of these methods. For additional weed control after site preparation, a soil fumigant may be used, or the area may be irrigated to encourage weed growth and then sprayed with a general herbicide.

In very weedy areas, the following method is suggested: Till soil or spray vegetation with RoundUp. When using an herbicide, allow vegetation to die, then rake out the dead debris. If perennial weeds such as bindweed are present, using an herbicide is more effective than tilling. Irrigate to encourage germination of weed seeds near the surface; most seeds will germinate within two weeks if consistent moisture is available. Do not till the soil again because this will bring even more weed seeds up to the surface. Spray any new growth with RoundUp. After raking out dead vegetation, allow soil to recover for 3 to 4 weeks before planting seed. From our experience, a recovery period of this duration is advisable because extensive use of glyphosate herbicides may cause a delay in germination and in the vigorous growth of seedlings.

Once the seeds have germinated, further weed control is usually necessary. If practical, pull all weeds as soon as they can be identified.

Other successful techniques are spot-spraying with a general herbicide or selectively cutting weeds with a string trimmer. Be sure to remove weeds before they reseed.

Many unwanted annual and some perennial grasses can be controlled with the herbicides Grass-B-Gon, Ornamec, and Fusilade. These post-emergents do not affect broad-leaved plants so they can be applied over existing flowers. They are most effective when sprayed on new growth and young plants. Take care to avoid treating areas with desirable native grasses or fescues.

What to Expect:

Wildflowers can provide an excellent, low cost alternative in large-scale, high maintenance situations, as well as a satisfying change from traditional urban landscaping. However, during their initial establishment period, wildflowers require as much maintenance as traditional plantings.

A smooth, weed and vegetation-free planting bed is important for good seed-to-soil contact and prompt germination. Avoid seeding more than the recommended rate since overseeding can result in crowded conditions the first year, and poor establishment of perennials. Cover seeds lightly to protect them from drying out during germination, and to prevent them from being eaten by birds. Consistent moisture is important for 4 to 6 weeks after planting.

A wildflower planting requires the same weed control measures as traditional landscaping. Effective measures include site preparation prior to planting and a post-germination maintenance program.

Most of our wildflower mixes contain annual, biennial and perennial species. The annuals, which may not be native to your area, are included to assure maximum color during the first season and to act as a nurse crop for the slower-growing perennials. Annuals germinate quickly when conditions are favorable, providing a quick ground cover and competition against weeds. Natural reseeding of annuals ranges from significant to minimal, depending on the species, climate, soil texture and other factors. Most perennial and biennial species begin to bloom the second season, but not as profusely as annuals. Therefore, wildflower plantings look noticeably different after the first year.

Sometimes it is desirable or even necessary to sow seed in second and subsequent years. Reseeding may be necessary if establishment of wildflowers is spotty or poor. It is possible to reseed bare areas with the original mixture. Loosen soil of bare areas and provide adequate weed control and supplemental irrigation as needed. Where natural reseeding of annuals is minimal, sowing annuals each spring can produce a magnificent annual and perennial display throughout the growing season.

If desired, wildflowers may be mowed in the Fall following seed set. Mow to a height of 4 to 6 in., and leave the residue on the ground because it is a reservoir of viable seeds.

Shipping Notes
  • Free Standard Shipping on $100+ Orders to the USA.
  • Except Preorder products are shipped in 48 hours.
  • Delivery to the USA:
  1. Standard Shipping : 3-10 business days
  • If time is of the essence, please consider selecting expedited delivery for faster service.
Exchange/Return Notes
  • We offer a 30-day return/exchange service after receiving.
  • Final sale items are not eligible for returns or exchanges.
  • To process your return/exchange, please contact us at [email protected]
  • Please click here for more details>>> Return & Exchange Policy
SKU: 22126047096

Discover Niche Categories That Outsell 50 lb wildflower seed

Top-Converting Item to Boost Your Average Order

4.1 ★★★★★
Based on 13 reviews
Sort
Highest Rating
Newest First
Oldest First
Product Reviews
Verified Purchase
314
Massapequa, US
★★★★★ 5
Works very well. Very easy to set up.
Configuration: 1-pack, Style: without eero Plus
Previously just had the standard wifi router provided by ATT with fiber connection. It was fine really but some parts of the house lacked good signal. Purchased the 6 Pro E and put the ATT router in bridge mode, the Eero instructions on doing that were perfect and it worked. The 6 Pro E was up and running in minutes and did it's own software updated immediately. Was super easy to rename the network, set the password and permissions and every single device that was previously on the old router connected seamlessly on it's own without any intervention. I think possibly one 2.5GHz device may not have auto-connected but it connected just fine once I put it in pairing mode. We have a lot of devices, mixed 5ghz and 2.5ghz, and so far both networks broadcast fine and everything works. Also 5th Gen Echo Dots seamlessly boost the wifi signal and I already had those in nearly every room before getting the Eero 6 Pro E. Few things to note: I don't pay for Eero Plus subscription so I don't use any of the extra reporting features. New devices connect with what looks like a random code or with a manufacturers name, which usually does not help identify what it is. That can be a challenge when you're trying to figure out if it is something you just added or someone else who managed to get in passed the firewall. Googling the name that shows up does not always help figure out what it is. For some reason my iphone reconnects every few weeks as a "new device" with a name of "unknown device". This does not happen with my husband's iphone. This means that at any given time there is one active "unknown device" and several others that are inactive with that name. Looks like eventually they drop off the recently connected inactive list. Even if I rename it to something specific, after a few weeks it will reconnect as if it's brand new and I'll get an Eero notification that a new device has connected. It is frustrating to have to continually check the app to make sure it's just my own phone and not something intruding. The Eero devices have a Zigbee hub built-in but my recent purchase of motorized Alexa compatible shades with Zigbee motors had issues. They connected sort of, but were not functioning in the Alexa app even though both Eero and the shade manufacturer said they should work. Eventually I had to also buy 2 older 4th gen Echo's that also have a Zigbee hub built-in, only then would they be found by Alexa and then they started working in Alexa app with voice and scheduling. However, adding the old 4th gen echos created two more issues: While every single other device in my house on other floors away from the Eero 6 Pro can connect just fine because I have 5th Gen Echos in most rooms boosting the mesh coverage, for some reason, the 4th Gen Echo placed on the second floor could not connect to the 6 Pro E router on the first floor. I had to end up buying a second Eero 6 for the second floor to act as a booster up there as well. Only then did the second floor 4th Gen Echo connect to wifi and stay connected. That's very odd because everything else on the second floor and in the basement and detached garage had no issues connecting to either the wide array of 5th Gen Echos or to the main 6 Pro E on the first floor. The second new issue... the Eero devices are set to roam automatically which is the point of mesh coverage. However, the Zigbee shades hated that feature and would constantly bounce from the nearest 4th Gen Echo to the 6 Pro E and back. Each bounce made them "unresponsive" in the Alexa App. Eventually I had to turn off that roaming feature in the Eero app settings so that every device now connects to whichever Echo or Eero it sees first and then stays there. Defeats the purpose of having mesh but it was the only way to make the $2000 worth of "smart" shades actually work with the network and Alexa.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on July 22, 2025
P
Verified Purchase
Patrick Calder
Draper, US
★★★★★ 4
Having trouble deciding if this is right for you? Read this.
Configuration: 3-pack, Style: without eero Plus
I'm only two days in to this, but I want to leave a review to help others who went through the same ordeal I have. This Eero Pro 6E has replaced an Orbi R750 system which I purchased in 2021 and used with two satellites. The Eero has some pros and cons over the Orbi. First, the reason for my replacement: while the Orbi still gives good coverage and speed, the stability of the wifi network has significantly decreased in the last year or so. I've done a lot of research on this and the only thing I can think of is that the Orbi 750 is rated for "40+" devices. I have "Smart Homed" my house and have 40-50 devices in total connected. Additionally, my wife owns a hair salon which operates out of our home so we have a guest wifi for that. So, I think that while theoretically the Orbi should still be fine, in practice it can't deal with more than 40 or so devices and starts "cycling through them" causing some devices to disconnect and reconnect repeatedly. I live in a rural area where cell signal is lousy, so you notice it very quickly when your device loses connectivity - especially if you are streaming. What good is my 65" OLED TV with wifi sound and my $300 a month cable and internet bill if I can't use the damn thing? So, on the Eero. I bought the three unit package since it was on sale (I'd actually initially bought the 2 unit package, and they went on sale the day afterwards so I returned it and ordered the 3 set. One complaint is that while I think you should get a "bulk deal" by ordering a 3 pack over a 2 pack over a single unit, but it's a huge difference. The 3 pack was $350 which equals $116 each. To buy just one if you misjudged how many you need, would be another $160.) Set up was quite simple, and was all done through the app. So it gets +1 for ease of use. As others have noted, there is no web log in and without the Eero plus subscription, there isn't much beyond set up and maintain the wifi. For the majority of users this is likely to not be a problem. Due to my recent wifi challenges, I wanted to use the analytics function of the app to see how the new coverage compared to the old. You can't do that without the plus subscription. So that's strike 1. However, you can set up the Guest network and basic things like that with the regular app access, so at least there's that. Likewise, adding each additional unit was pretty easy. What I recommend you do is download an app like WiFiman (which seems pretty legit) after you set up your first Eero and walk around with the shortcut function on in the WiFiman app which will tell you the signal strength as you move about. I would say right about the limit of where it stops being either "Excellent" or "Good" is where you need to place your next Eero unit. "Excellent" ensures the best quality, but if you have a lot of space to cover you'd need to stretch it to "Good". I will note here that unlike the Orbi, which has a router and two (or more) satellites, each Eero unit is functionally identical, so it doesn't matter which one you grab first, and which one are the satellites. It's easy to add the next Eero device from the app even if you didn't immediately select "Add another device" after the first one. Like I said, I recommend walking around and getting an idea of your coverage needs before adding the next ones anyway. So that's a +1, again for ease of use. However, I notice compared to the Orbi that its range and speed drops off much faster the further you get. So, you're not going to get the overall quality range. I noticed this while out doing yardwork this morning - my phone would stay on the Orbi wifi a hundred or so feet from the house. It loses the Eero wifi (or, the quality goes way down) at the same range. So this is another point that I guess I knew, but is important to remember: at range, the speed at which you transmit decreases despite what your internet connection actually is. So, for example, my service provider gives me 1000 mb/S service which is reasonably fast. Standing next to the Eero unit which is connected to my modem via the ethernet cable gives me close to that speed. But, get a dozen feet away with a wall in the way, and you are down to about 400 mb/s. As stated, the Orbi has better range and the speed keeps up better. But what good is range and speed if you are constantly getting booted off the Wifi? Supporting my max device theory, I'd often get booted off the Orbi wifi somewhat predictably at various times in the day. Last night, on the new Eero network, it didn't happen! I was able to stay connected the whole time. (As was my mother in law in the in-law apartment, so not having to deal with that is a major plus!). So stability is a +2 on the score scale. Finally, if you're like me and have several dozen Wifi devices you don't need to worry about the new Eero units and compatibility - as long as you name your new Wifi network the same and keep the same password, the devices don't know the difference. They connect to the new network the same way they'd go back to your old one as if it were nothing more than a power outage. So, ultimately the Eero 6E is a little slower and gives a little less coverage than the Orbi 750....but unlike the Orbi it says it will take "100+" devices...and it *works*. At least so far. That said, I'd definitely get it on sale. While functionality is always key, the fact is the features are much less than many competitors. It might not be worth the full price.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on June 20, 2025
V
Verified Purchase
Victoria N.
Louisville, US
★★★★★ 5
Great Upgrade — Worth Every Penny
Configuration: 3-pack, Style: without eero Plus
We previously used the dual‑band eero 2 model, and it served us fairly well. After doing some research (and getting a little help from Copilot), we upgraded to the eero Pro 6E — and the difference has been incredible. We bought the 3‑pack, but quickly realized that 2 units easily covered our entire home (~2,000 sq ft). It’s not a loss, though; we’ll leave 2 behind for the family when we move and bring the extra 1 with us and we can buy another single unit later if needed. For context, we pay for 800 Mbps, but with our old modem/router combo we were only getting 70–150 Mbps in most rooms. Zoom calls were hit‑or‑miss, and the layout of our house doesn’t help — the modem is stuck in the far right corner of the house, and moving the line would require some construction/rewiring = $$$. After installing the eero Pro 6E, we’re now consistently getting 350–680 Mbps in every room, and even our garage pulls around 300 Mbps. That’s roughly an 80% improvement without touching any wiring. Setup was straightforward. Since we have a modem/router combo, the only tricky part was remembering to turn off the router portion. Once the main eero was connected, our devices automatically joined the new network since we kept the same Wi‑Fi name and password. From there, placing the second unit halfway through the house filled in the weak spots that we use to have. The speed and stability have been game‑changing for our hybrid/WFH household. We run Ring cameras, smart plugs, a MyQ garage opener, Google devices, and smart lights. For the smart lights, garage and smart locks, I had to manually reset the wifi though and 2 out of 7 of the ring cameras. Pros - Very easy to set up, especially if you’ve used eero before - The app makes managing devices, checking status, and updating Wi‑Fi info simple - Excellent coverage for homes with dead zones or awkward layouts - Truly plug‑and‑play — anyone can get this running Cons - It’s definitely pricey (we were lucky to have a gift card that covered most of it) - Much larger than the older eero 2 units — about 2.5× the size - Works best elevated on a table, so don’t leave it on the floor Overall, if you’re struggling with weak speeds, dead spots, or a modem stuck in a bad corner of the house, the eero Pro 6E is absolutely worth considering. It made a dramatic difference for us.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on January 25, 2026
A
Verified Purchase
A. Sudol
Grantham, US
★★★★★ 1
Wanted to like this, but had to return... and return was not easy.
Configuration: 3-pack, Style: without eero Plus
This review is on the EEPRO 6E tri-band mesh. I'm not a network novice so after my bad experience I wanted to warn people away from this product. In my 25 years working in technology infrastructure I've acquired experience, network certifications, etc believe me when I claim I'm not stupid. I live in a three floor house on an acre lot so have little external signal penetration into my home. All rooms I wired with Cat6 for gigabit ethernet. My internet service is 1Gb; from the wire I speed test at 800 Mbps down and the same upload. No one in my family wants to plug in anymore so we all rely on three independent wireless routers connected by wire and bridged into the network: a netgear nighthawk (2,4Ghz and 5Ghz bands) on floor two, a Verizon gigabit router (2,4Ghz and 5Ghz bands) on floor three and an apple extreme (2.4Ghz band ) on floor one in the basement. From my apple phone (12 pro) I consistently get 550Mbps download and 300-400 upload except on the basement router where my office is. I wanted a mesh to improve signal handoff and for my office to get the same as the rest of the house. I picked this one because I read good things and the price was discounted compared to the orbi which at $2,000 I just could not bring myself to buy. The installation of the first node was easy (connect to the wire and run the app) on the second floor, the second node complained it was out of reach on floor 1 (directly under node one & connected to the ethernet wire). After two attempts to find it, it worked. The third one was a nightmare. Tried putting it on the other side of the house and connect to ethernet and just would not pickup. I had to bring it one room away from node one before it picked up. Job done? Well the first day I had 450 Mbps download and 400 upload everywhere. Thinking I was happy. Next day, "Dad we have no wifi!". My wife tells me she was dropping connections from her laptop all day within 20 feet of node 2. I thought ok I'll reset the system. Re-input all their devices with fresh connections. That worked for 24 hours. Next day, I'm sitting in the room with node2 and it affect me; 1Mbps download .01 Mbps upload. I renew my connection, no fix. Reset the system and back to 450 Mbps. I check any firmware updates, nope all current. I thought maybe the node below #2 was too close, so moved it an additional 15 feet away to lessen any signal cancellation. Next day,"Honey why did you buy this, it slower and worse than our old system?'. Yep it's time to return. So the old network went back in and all iphones and macbooks are happy again. Here is the worst part, the return. I initiate the return, pack it all nice and find out I can't drop it off at the UPS store. Why? Because Amazon will only process the return if they pickup from my home. Ugg, but fine. Here is where it goes downhill...you have to wait for a phone call from the carrier to arrange a pickup. After a week of waiting for a call and answering numerous telemarketer garbage calls, I decided to call back customer service and find another way because I have to travel for work and can't wait at my house for a phone call. The only other way - is to pay for shipping yourself. So um why can a return label or QR code be processed for anything else but not this product. Very Dodgey. Do yourself a favor and pick another system or maybe the mesh is just not worth it. PS. I did find out that the system ( even though it has a 2.5Mbps network port) is rated as one of the slower systems when it works. I could never get it as fast as my existing netgear with is over 2 years old.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on July 20, 2022
C
Verified Purchase
Customer in Oregon
Draper, US
★★★★★ 5
FULL POINTS!!!
Configuration: 2-pack, Style: without eero Plus
After repeated, torturous attempts with other routers to replace the wifi network provided by our beloved Apple Time Capsule, we are relieved and thrilled to have landed on the 2-unit eero Pro 6E router. Hallellujah! Among other things, the eero routers (and their mesh) were trivial to set up, the support was great (and barely needed), and a great surprise, the eero routers automatically connect to our wifi-aware HP LaserJet M401dw printer (via a feature in the eero routers called Universal Plug and Play, or uPnP), so that I don't have to choose the printer's wifi before printing. And oh yeah, the eero routers' mesh covers our 1,600-sq ft house nicely, with great signal speed and strength, and automatically chooses my Mac's fastest wifi speed. TIP (old news to most of you, I presume): To provide additional ethernet ports from the routers, I bought and installed the inexpensive, high quality "NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS105NA)", which required no setup at all, except that the switch must be connected to either of the eero routers after the eero router is connected to your cable modem, so that your ethernet service can recognize the additional ports provided by the switch. My only complaint is that setting up the eero routers requires a cell phone, and as I love macOS for its legacy self-evident user interface, I hate cell phones! But that said, set up with the cell phone was trivial. So... FULL POINTS!!! PS. Despite searching hard, I never found a router that supported Time Machine backups via wifi, which was possible with the Apple Time Capsule. Instead, I have adopted Apple's present guidance to make Time Machine backups to an SSD (removable flash drive). I use two, keeping one in the house and one in the car and swapping them with every backup. Works fine, but I miss Steve Jobs!
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on January 9, 2026

recommand products