SKU: 679348026
rare lavender plants

rare lavender plants Rare White Lavender ~ Lavendula Ellagance ~ Plants ~ Garden ~ Grow Your Own ~ Spring Flowers ~ Instead of Flowers ~ Died Bouquets

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Description

rare lavender plants Rare White Lavender ~ Lavendula Ellagance ~ Plants ~ Garden ~ Grow Your Own ~ Spring Flowers ~ Instead of Flowers ~ Died BouquetsWhite lavender may seem like an oxymoron. This flowered herb is known for its decadent aroma, soothing properties, and versatility of uses. But its white flowered cousins are equally useful and dazzling in the garden. Their albino colored spikes have all the same properties as standard lavender, but with a fun bleached twist. ~ Includes ~ ~ 1 Seed. ~ Grow and Care Instructions. Lavender Grow and Care Instructions The best method to use for growing

White lavender may seem like an oxymoron. This flowered herb is known for its decadent aroma, soothing properties, and versatility of uses. But its white-flowered cousins are equally useful and dazzling in the garden. Their albino colored spikes have all the same properties as standard lavender, but with a fun bleached twist.

~ Includes ~

~ 1 Seed.

~ Grow and Care Instructions.

  

💜 Lavender Grow and Care Instructions 💜

The best method to use for growing lavender from seed is to start them indoors. They can take a long time to germinate, and tend to sprout unevenly.

Keeping them inside in a controlled environment will give you the most consistent germination rate.

Of course, you could try direct sowing them. They’re also a great candidate for winter sowing, since they do require cold stratification. So go ahead and experiment to see which method works for you. Successfully planting lavender seeds requires some special tricks. These cold hardy seeds need a bit of extra help in order to germinate. But don’t worry, it’s easier than you think.

Plant lavender seeds indoors 10-12 weeks before your average last frost date. If you want to direct sow them, you should do that in very early spring, as soon as the ground is workable.

You could also try planting them in your garden in late fall, so they will sprout in the spring. Or winter sow them as soon as the temps stay below freezing in your area.

In order to germinate, lavender seeds need a period of cool temperatures called “cold stratification”.

If you skip this step, you may still have success. But most likely, you’ll see a very low germination rate.

The easiest way to cold stratify lavender seeds is to place them in moist soil, then put them into the refrigerator for 3-6 weeks before planting. You can cover them with a thin layer of dirt if you prefer, but take care that they aren’t more than 1/8″ deep.

Step 1: Prepare the soil – If you plan to use pellets, moisten them before placing them into the seed trays. Otherwise, fill the plastic cells with the soil mix.

Step 2: Decide how many seeds to plant – Since they tend to germinate unevenly, I recommend planting 2-3 lavender seeds per hole or pellet.

If you’re direct sowing them outside, space them in groupings about 2″ apart, and thin them to 18″ later on.

Step 3: Plant the seeds – Since they need light to germinate, I prefer to drop my lavender seeds on top of the soil and leave them there.

Step 4: Water the soil – If it’s not already damp, then water the soil until it’s evenly moist.

It’s a good idea to water the trays from the bottom, rather than over the top, to avoid displacing the tiny seeds.

Step 5: Cover the trays – Put the plastic dome lid on top of the trays. This will help to keep the soil moist during germination.

Step 6: Give them plenty of light – Place them in a bright location, or turn on the grow lights. Remember, they need light in order to germinate, so give them plenty of sunshine if you don’t have a plant light.

Step 7 (optional): Monitor the temperature – Ideally, you should keep the soil between 60-65F degrees for the best germination rate. Use a soil thermometer to monitor the temperature.

 LIGHT: After germinating, the seedlings can get leggy very fast. So keep your grow light 1-2″ above them at all times. A sunny window won’t be good enough to prevent legginess.

 WATER: It’s important to keep the soil evenly moist, but never soggy. I recommend using a soil moisture gauge to get it just right.

 FERTILIZER: When they have 3-4 true leaves, you can start feeding lavender seedlings with a 1/2 dose of liquid fertilizer, or compost tea each time you water.

 POTTING: After they are twice the height of the seed tray, pot them up into deeper containers. I like plantable pots, but you could certainly use plastic ones if you prefer.

💜 Best Wishes, Your Plant Bitch (Quinn)

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I ordered this mouse (in blue) to replace the recently deceased exact same model that I've used for the past 2 or 3 years. I like the simplicity of the M185 mouse and mostly the best bang for your buck! I caught this one on sale for less than a ten-spot, so I thought, "why not." I'm hoping that this one will last a bit longer than my two previous M185 models, that averaged about 3 years each. This model seems plagued by a short life span and is predisposed to mysteriously and suddenly dying, without any obvious symptoms or warning of any kind - - you're working and clicking along, going about your day, when suddenly the cursor on the computer screen freezes and that's it. Nothing, zero, nada. Funny thing, I'm very careful not to abuse or drop the mouse, and keep a fresh battery installed and watch for leakage and all that stuff - - they just stop working, and I assume it is caused by some sort of inherent electronic fault in the circuitry of the previous M185's. Due to my loyalty to the brand and model (and since it was on sale) I decided to give it one more shot. They say that "third time's a charm". I like the fact that the M185 is simple and uncluttered with extra buttons that I would never use for my purpose, which is simple web-browsing and the occasional text document production. The feel is solid, not heavy, but not cheap feeling, either. I'm used to the shape of this mouse, which to me is quite comfortable for long sessions, another reason why I kind of wanted to stay with this model. The buttons have an audible "click", which doesn't bother me at all, and the wheel moves smoothly and also has a clicking operation (which I rarely ever use). The overall surface of the mouse has a matte finish, but like my previous models I'm sure it will eventually wear shiny spots where my fingers reside and will attain a more "well-used" look in time. Connecting it was a breeze, too. I just plugged the dongle into a spare rear usb port of my desktop, and the mouse connected instantly, no problem. The dongle can be stored safely inside the battery compartment, so you can take the whole thing out of the house if needed for use elsewhere. The speed of 1000 dpi seems just right for my purposes. The one I ordered even came with its own AA Duracell battery, which I wasn't really expecting. This mouse also enters "sleep mode" when you don't use it for a while, and I can't say how many times I've got up and left it on all night. And that's not hard to do, as I'll explain next. The only real negative to this mouse is the absence of any easily visible status indicator of it's on / off switch. The rear housing of this mouse is matte black, including the tiny switch where you turn it on and off with your fingernail, with only a very faint "on" lettering (also black), and very hard to see with my aging eyes. The laser is not lighted or visible when on, also adding to the confusion, especially in a darkened room. So, as a workaround, I took a tiny drop of green paint and placed it down inside the switch slider to visibly help indicate the "on" position, and likewise a dot of bright orange for the "off" position. Many of Logitech's more expensive models (and a few other manufacturers) include this color-coded switch indication. I guess for the $$, they had to cut corners somewhere - - a minor complaint. In summary, this is a good basic mouse that works - - let's hope that this one will last longer than its two predecessors.
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