SKU: 93502065097
green leaf succulent plant

green leaf succulent plant Paddle Plant ‘Kalanchoe thyrsiflora’

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Description

green leaf succulent plant Paddle Plant ‘Kalanchoe thyrsiflora’The Paddle Plant, also known as Kalanchoe thyrsiflora, is a distinctive succulent admired for its compact rosette of thick, rounded, paddle shaped leaves. Its sculptural form and soft, powdery foliage make it a popular choice among succulent collectors, xeriscape gardens, and low maintenance houseplant enthusiasts. This species is especially valued for its ability to thrive in dry conditions with minimal care, making it highly suitable for arid and

The Paddle Plant, also known as Kalanchoe thyrsiflora, is a distinctive succulent admired for its compact rosette of thick, rounded, paddle-shaped leaves. Its sculptural form and soft, powdery foliage make it a popular choice among succulent collectors, xeriscape gardens, and low-maintenance houseplant enthusiasts. This species is especially valued for its ability to thrive in dry conditions with minimal care, making it highly suitable for arid and water-wise landscapes.

In addition to the common name Paddle Plant, this species is sometimes referred to as the dog tongue, desert cabbage, Flapjack Plant due to its flattened, overlapping leaves that resemble a stack of pancakes.  

Native to South Africa, this succulent features smooth, rounded leaves covered in a white, powdery coating (farina) that helps protect it from intense sunlight and reduces water loss. 

The foliage remains primarily light to medium green and may develop a faint reddish or pinkish blush under strong sun exposure, but it does not typically produce the deep red margins often seen in misidentified forms.

These Kalanchoe thyrsiflora maintain a compact, symmetrical rosette growth habit, making it ideal for container planting, rock gardens, and succulent arrangements. 

It is a slow-growing but highly resilient plant that can reach a moderate size while maintaining a neat, structured appearance. The Paddle Plant is a relatively small succulent that grows up to 18 inches tall and spreads up to 8 inches wide.

In late winter to early spring, mature plants produce a tall flower spike that can reach up to 3 feet in height. The blooms are tubular and yellow, attracting pollinators such as bees. 

After flowering, the main rosette may naturally decline, but the plant often continues its life cycle through offsets that develop around the base, ensuring ongoing growth and propagation.

When and How to Water Your Paddle Succulent 

The paddle succulent plant is a drought-tolerant succulent that prefers to dry out fully between waterings, making it far more forgiving if you forget to water than if you overdo it.

The paddle plant should be watered every 2 to 3 weeks during the growing season, with watering reduced to about once every 4 to 6 weeks during the dormant season, keeping moisture very light.

In the spring and summer, always allow the soil to dry out completely before watering again. This soak and dry approach helps prevent root rot, which is one of the most common issues with this plant.

In the fall and winter, your paddle plant needs even less water as growth slows down. Since cooler temperatures and lower light reduce evaporation, it is best to hold back on watering and only add a small amount when the soil is fully dry.

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Light Requirements – Where to Place Your Paddle Plant 

When growing indoors, your Paddle kalanchoe thrives in bright, indirect light, which is a key part of proper paddle plant care.

It should be placed near a sunny window, preferably one facing south or west, where it can receive at least 4 to 6 hours of bright light daily.

If natural sunlight is limited, supplement with a grow light to maintain healthy growth and prevent leggy, stretched stems.

Insufficient light can cause the plant to lose its vibrant red margins and slow down its overall growth. 

When growing outdoors, the Paddle Plant prefers the full sun to partial shade. Ideally, it should receive 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily.

Morning sunlight is preferable to intense afternoon sun, which can scorch the leaves if temperatures are excessively high. If growing in hot climates, consider providing some afternoon shade to prevent sun damage, especially during heat waves. 

For both indoor and outdoor growth, it is essential to gradually acclimate the plant to increased sunlight exposure to avoid sunburn. When moving from indoors to outdoors, introduce it to direct sunlight over a week or two, starting with a few hours per day. 

Optimal Soil & Fertilizer Needs 

The Kalanchoe thyrsiflora prefers a very well-draining, sandy or gritty soil mix, along with light fertilization once a year in spring. Planting it in heavy or moisture-retaining soil can lead to compacted roots, poor growth, and eventually root rot, so it is best to use a specialized succulent potting mix with organic mycorrhizae can also support a stronger, healthier root system and help your plant grow more efficiently.

When it comes to fertilizing your kalanchoe plant, apply a balanced, low-strength NPK fertilizer once a year in spring to maintain steady and healthy growth. For best results, use a diluted fertilizer with an NPK ratio around 5-10-5, where slightly higher phosphorus supports stronger roots and fuller leaves.

During fall and winter, when the plant enters dormancy, fertilizing should be avoided completely. Growth slows down during this time, and adding nutrients can build up in the soil and damage the roots.

Hardiness Zones & More 

In the United States, this is mostly an indoor plant, but if you live in southern Florida or Hawaii, then you can cultivate it outdoors in USDA zones 9-11.

It prefers temperatures between 60-80°F and moderate humidity levels. 

Always provide full to partial sun exposure for the best growth and coloration. 

If you live in cooler regions, it is best grown in containers as it is not frost tolerant, and temperatures below 30°F can damage or even kill it. Even light frost can leave marks on the leaves or cause them to become soft and mushy.

How to Grow as a Houseplant

Growing your paddle plant indoors is easy as long as you give it the right environment. It prefers warm conditions, ideally between 60°F to 85°F. It does not handle cold well, so keep it away from drafts, air conditioners, or chilly windows during cooler months. In terms of humidity, it thrives in low to average indoor humidity, which makes it a great match for most homes since it does not need extra misting or moisture in the air.

Set your paddle plant succulent in a bright spot with plenty of indirect sunlight, like near a south or west-facing window.  If your space is a bit dim, you may notice slower growth and less vibrant color, so aim for the brightest area you have without exposing it to intense, prolonged direct rays.

Wildlife – Paddle Plant Flowers Attract the Following Friendly Pollinators 

The Paddle plant produces tall, yellow, tubular flowers that attract friendly pollinators such as bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. These flowers typically appear in late winter or early spring and provide an essential nectar source for beneficial insects. 

Butterflies
Bees
Hummingbirds
Lady Bugs
Multi Pollinators
Other Birds

According to the ASPCA, the Kalanchoe thyrsiflora is considered mildly toxic to cats, dogs, and birds. If ingested in a large amount, it can cause mild to moderate symptoms, including vomiting, drooling, and digestive upset. However, it is safe to touch and handle, making it a popular choice for indoor plants. 

How to Propagate Your Kalanchoe thyrsiflora 

The Paddle plant kalanchoe can be propagated through leaf cuttings or offsets. To propagate through leaf cuttings, simply remove a healthy leaf from the plant and allow it to callous before placing it in well-draining soil. The easiest method is separating offsets that naturally grow at the base of mature plants. Gently remove them, allow the cut ends to callous for 24-48 hours, then plant them in well-draining soil. Keep the soil lightly moist until roots establish.

Key Takeaways

  1. Kalanchoe thyrsiflora is a unique indoor houseplant with thick, paddle-shaped leaves that form a compact, low-growing rosette, making it ideal for bright windows and container displays.
  2. Unlike Kalanchoe luciae, the true Paddle Plant does not develop strong red margins, typically maintaining soft gray-green foliage even in bright light.
  3. As a drought-tolerant succulent, it stores water in its leaves and thrives with simple, low-maintenance care, making it a great choice for busy plant owners.
  4. When mature, it produces a 3-foot-tall flower stalk with fragrant, tubular yellow blooms that attract pollinators like bees and butterflies.
  5. It adapts well to indoor environments, especially when placed in bright, sunny spots where it can maintain its compact shape and healthy growth.

The Bottom Line 

Overall, the Paddle Plant (Kalanchoe thyrsiflora) is a visually stunning and low-maintenance succulent that adds a bold, modern aesthetic to any garden or home. Its stunning red-tinged leaves and attractive yellow flowers make it a popular choice for succulent lovers. With proper watering, light exposure, and temperature considerations, this plant can be grown successfully indoors and outdoors. Whether grown in a container, rock garden, or xeriscape landscape, the Paddle Plant is a resilient and rewarding addition that brings beauty and texture to any space. 

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hearmeout
Port Orchard, US
★★★★★ 4
One - Month Review
Set name: Ender 3 V3 SE, Set name: Ender 3 V3 SE
First - I wrote a out of the box review - I do not know if this review will replace the old review or compliment it. Just in case this review replaces the old review - I will repeat a few of the important points from the previous review. I must also say it helps a great deal if you are already familiar with Ender because about 80% or more of the machine is built the same way as the older models. If this is your first Ender - read the instructions and check to make sure you have all the parts. Placing the parts where you can easily tear open the bags and not having to search for a part cuts down the assembly time. While the assembled printer takes up a small footprint - give yourself room to work. This is my 3rd printer - my first one I made from scratch. It took about 2 weeks to get it assembled and another two weeks to get it to print properly. Most of that time was spent modifying the Martin software so it would run my machine! My second one was an Ender V1. It took me about 90 minutes to assemble and about 30 minutes to get it to work. Over the years - I modified it to the point it was virtually impossible to tell the difference between it and a V3. I replaced it because a least one of the motors was going bad and I did not want to do the repairs. I picked this printer for 3 reasons 1) it was on sale, 2) I am now wheelchair bound and needed a printer that did not require too much assembly, and 3) I had worked with Ender before and knew how they worked. I was able to keep some of the old parts from the old machine (but threw most away). Everything was packaged well, but the small parts are in plastic bags that you have to tear or cut open - so be careful you do not lose any parts! There are only three parts to be assembled. They are the base, the frame, and the screen. I had no trouble getting the machine together - did have some trouble getting it to work. I was never able to reach customer service which ranged between "Who are you Kidding?" and "Did you really expect any?" I did some internet searching (there is lots of stuff out there - many are good YouTube videos). I found I needed to do an update - it got a bit complicated here. Part of the update was done using the hidden slot on the LEFT side of the removable screen and part was done using a SD card on the LEFT side of the Unit. (Ender does NOT tell you this on their website!). I was already angry when I tried their slicer and it did NOT work - after not being able to get customer service again. I deleted their slicer and used my Cura. After doing a few prints using Cura (which works fine) a couple days later, I reinstalled their slicer and did some troubleshooting - I found I had a setting wrong. I use both Cura and their slicer now because of the differences. Each one has some features the other one lacks. One example: The Cura has a large number of preset configurations, and it is easy to save a custom configuration. The Creality titles the g-code with a filename that includes the estimate print time. I tried customer service and actually someone! They did give me the manual settings for generic Pla - when I asked how to save those settings they send me to a useless link. I will research how to save one day - but will use my Cura for generic pla until then. What I like about the machine. 1} While it is nosier (a trade-off for higher speed) - it is still much quieter than the original Ender I had before modifications. 2)The new ribbon and print head are a big improvement. The filament is easier to change, and you can easily make prints with different colors! I do not miss the bowden tube and individual wires at all! 3) I like to put my prints on a card. The old machine used a micro-SD card - and I quicky bought an adapter! The new machine takes regular SD cards and no adapter is needed! 4) I really like the automatic leveling feature. There have been times I have spent hours getting my manual table set the way I wanted. So far - it has worked great. I have only made about 50 prints - so I cannot tell you how reliable it is in long term use. 5) The quality of prints is much better than my old machine. I am not sure whether this due to being a better machine or the stepper motor needing replacement. What I do not like: 1) The SD card has to be put into its slot upside down. 2) The controls and the SD card slot are all on the left side of the printer. I think putting the computer connection and the SD card would have been much better on the front of the machine. 3) Updating is like putting up a Christmas tree. The firmware is done with a hidden C connector on the left side of the detachable screen (this is like putting up a Christmas tree). Fine details on display etc. are put in using the SD card (this is like putting the lights on the tree). Once you figure out what goes where - it is the easiest printer to update I have had. 4. This one is a mixed bag. I do not give their customer service good marks - but the fact I found solutions on the internet was a good thing.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 5, 2026
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Sid Hubbs
Draper, US
★★★★★ 5
The K2 SE is a great entry level printer. Don't let the naysayers get you down!
Set name: K2 SE
I bought the K2 SE because it was inexpensive and I wanted to get into 3D printing. I had a Creality laser engraver that worked well, so I figured I'd go with the brand I knew. I bought the additional enclosure because I was planning to use this in the garage where my wood shop is, and I wanted to keep some dust out. I have been pushing this thing pretty hard for three months now and it has not so much as looked at me cross eyed. It takes everything I throw at it. The quality seems to be there, as nothing is wearing out. I have a little superlube oil and grease to keep up the maintenance, and I suspect any failures people report have been on unmaintained machines. If you're the type that drives your car without changing the oil, 3D printing is not for you. A quick note on 3D printing, for the uninitiated. When you see the one and two star reviews for the K2 SE, make sure you read why the reviewer is leaving the low rating. "Doesn't come with filament" - if you're not buying a combo with filament, none of the printers on the market come with filament. "Makes bubbles and pops when printing" - this is wet filament and not the fault of the printer (dry your filament). 3D printing is not a set it and forget it proposition, at least not at first. It requires a little skill (that can be built), a little knowledge (the U of Tube), and a little patience while you learn how to use the machine. Now for the machine itself... The print quality surprised me as a first time 3D printer user. I have purchased 3D printed items in the past and the lines were not something that impressed me. The K2 SE prints pretty much the same quality as the higher end Bambu Labs printers. The speed is all I could ask for, and I have fed this thing all kinds of PLA, PETG and TPU from Creality, Sunlu, Polymaker and AnyCubic without a problem. Any issues I have had have been the fault of the operator (me) not knowing I had to dry PETG before I use it. I have a Creality filament dryer now and dry my PETG right out of the package, then store it in an airtight container with dessicant. I have two printers running dried PETG sitting behind me right now and they're doing great. If I have a single complaint about the K2 SE, it's the bed size. At 215 x 220 it's smaller than the industry "standard" of 256 x 256, and if you get some of the larger prints that are designed for a "standard" sized printer, they won't fit the build plate. But I knew that coming into this, because they advertise the size right up front. Overall, I'm happy with the K2 SE. It was an excellent entry level printer and I have learned a lot from using it. I may even buy a second to add to my growing farm.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 20, 2026
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ReluctantConsumer
Draper, US
★★★★★ 5
Creality K1 SE - Prints great with stock settings - needs a side spool mount
Set name: K2 SE, Set name: K2 SE
I bought the Creality K1 SE a little over a week ago. I had an Ender 3 S1 before this printer. The K1 SE is so, so much easier to print with right out of the box! I definitely recommend it. It's a good way to get the improvements that were built into Creality's K1C, but at a nicer price. Plus, you can install your own version of Klipper if you want. I've printed 10 or so things in PLA and PETG, and I haven't had any failed prints. The automatic bed leveling has just worked. I have not had any problems with bed adhesion. On the Ender 3 S1, I only used a textured PEI plate, but the smooth build plate on the K1 SE works fine. The extruder cooling fan also seems ok for what I've printed so far. I printed an overhang test and the 75 degree overhang looks fine, but it had trouble at 80 degrees. The bridging test looked ok. (The longest bridge was only 25 mm on that test however.) I've put the printer in a soft-sided enclosure that I had used for my old Ender 3 S1. (It's easy to find similar encolsures.) The LEDs on the K1 SE are bright enough to see inside which is something that I was concerned about before I purchased. However, this enclosure makes it difficult to access the back of the printer where the filament spool is mounted, so I designed a mount that clamps onto the side-bar - see the pictures. The files are on Printables - "Creality K1 SE Side Spool Mount".
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Reviewed in the United States on January 21, 2025
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Geoff
Belleville, US
★★★★★ 3
Almost Good
Set name: K2 SE
The nozzle cleaning is completely ineffective. The wiper pushes material up the sides of the nozzle and melts onto the nozzle. The result is the nozzle leaves burnt debris on the prints. The calibration before each print only probes 5 points on the bed and the results are not satisfactory, with the nozzle being variously too close or too far from the bed. To adjust the z offset you have to go through several menus and the machine seems to not remember where you set it last time. Print quality is good except for VFAs. Part cooling fan is very loud at full speed.
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Reviewed in the United States on February 5, 2026
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Joshua McPheron
Carnegie, US
★★★★★ 5
Assembly Tricks And Tips.
Color: Dark Grey, Size: 5 Seat
All my packages came at same time. Assembly is in 3 phases, each box had the same complete instruction book, but each phase was not completely together in the same box. I immediately started opening boxes and just separated by letters. A's here, B's here. Not all A's or the other letters are the same, but it is very easy to follow the instructions. You won't get it mixed up. 3 hardware kits, it's pretty easy. Picture Book Difficulty :) The one large headboard piece was Letter M. There was no sticker on it, but there were no M stickers either. Pretty easy. It's not a thick grandma's pull-out bed type of couch, but seems sturdy. I probably should have got the 3 year warranty, and I only have one kid. This isn't a couch to front-flip off the island on to, but it is nice and comfy and seems to be worth the cost. Assembly took about 2-3 hours casually I think. I used impact drill. Luckily it's 1 screw head size, then the socket for the nuts basically (provided). Communication with seller was easy and transparent. Idk what else people might be looking for in these reviews. It smelled completely fine. Good purchase. They say to air it out for a while, but I just assembled it immediately it didn't mess up anything. OH! And a little trick for the double sided threaded bolts with no head, they can get stuck hand tightening it so tighten down one of the nuts all the way to the end of the exposed thread that sticks up, and you can thread those bolts that don't have a head WAY easier using the nut as the head. Then just loosen the nut back off of it. You'll understand what I mean. Thank You
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Reviewed in the United States on April 28, 2026

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