SKU: 5747305514
pothos jungle

pothos jungle Epipremnum 'Jungle Star'

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Description

pothos jungle Epipremnum 'Jungle Star'Epipremnum aureum 'Jungle Star' ('Marble Green') Epipremnum aureum 'Jungle Star' ('Marble Green') is a green on green variegated pothos with heart shaped leaves marked in lime, mid green, and deeper emerald tones. The lime, mid green and dark green markings vary across each blade. The plant grows as a flexible indoor aroid vine. Young stems can trail from a pot or be trained upward, where the aerial roots can grip a textured support. The green

Epipremnum aureum 'Jungle Star' ('Marble Green')

Epipremnum aureum 'Jungle Star' ('Marble Green') is a green-on-green variegated pothos with heart-shaped leaves marked in lime, mid green, and deeper emerald tones. The lime, mid-green and dark-green markings vary across each blade.

The plant grows as a flexible indoor aroid vine. Young stems can trail from a pot or be trained upward, where the aerial roots can grip a textured support. The green-dominant pattern leaves more green tissue across each blade, with lighter lime marbling across the foliage.

As a selection of Epipremnum aureum, it comes from a wet-tropical climbing species native to Mo‘orea in the Society Islands, with aerial roots adapted for attaching to humid forest surfaces.

Green marbling at a glance

  • Heart-shaped leaves with lime, mid green, and deeper green marbling.
  • Lime to emerald patterning that varies naturally from leaf to leaf.
  • Trailing or climbing stems with aerial roots at the nodes.
  • Stems can be trained on moss poles or allowed to cascade from hanging pots.
  • Warmth, bright indirect light and drainage help reduce stretched stems and wet-root stress.

Node growth and green-patterned leaves

'Jungle Star' ('Marble Green') has glossy juvenile leaves with the same node-based growth structure as the species. The colour shifts within the green range, from lime markings to darker mottling, giving the foliage layered green variation across the vine.

The stems can be left to lengthen or cut back to encourage new side shoots. Each healthy node can root, which makes the plant easy to refresh when vines become long. On a support, the aerial roots attach more readily in warm, humid conditions, and leaf size can increase as the stem matures.

Care for a green-marbled pothos vine

  • Light: Place in bright indirect light or gentle filtered light. Strong direct sun can mark the glossy surface, while very low light can stretch the stems.
  • Water: Water when the upper 20–30% of the mix is dry. Let excess water drain fully so lower roots do not sit in stagnant moisture.
  • Substrate: Use a chunky, free-draining aroid mix with bark, perlite, coco chips, or pumice. The vines grow best when the root zone stays airy.
  • Temperature: Keep at 18–28 °C for active growth. Avoid cold wet conditions around the roots, especially in winter.
  • Humidity: Average indoor humidity is usually enough, but steadier humidity helps new leaves expand smoothly on climbing stems.
  • Feeding: Feed lightly during the growing season. Pause or reduce fertiliser when growth slows under short winter days.
  • Training: Pin stems to a moss pole or let them cascade. Prune above a node to make the pot fuller and root cuttings from healthy vines.

Growth and colour checks

  • Faded-looking pattern: Check whether the plant is in very low light or has been pushed into harsh sun. Adjust placement gradually.
  • Yellowing leaves: Feel the mix below the surface. Yellowing with damp substrate points to too much water or poor drainage.
  • Thin, stretched stems: Move closer to bright indirect light and prune long bare sections back to active nodes.
  • Brown marks on leaf edges: Review watering gaps, fertiliser concentration, and dry heat exposure near radiators.
  • Stalled new growth: Check root space, temperature, and light. Cool rooms and compacted mix slow new vine extension.

Safety around chewing and sap

Epipremnum aureum 'Jungle Star' ('Marble Green') contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals. Chewing the foliage can irritate the mouth and digestive tract, so the plant should be kept away from pets and small children.

Name and species background

Epipremnum comes from Greek roots meaning “upon” and “trunk,” reflecting the climbing habit of the genus. The species epithet aureum means “golden,” from the golden-yellow markings of the classic species form.

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SKU: 5747305514

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4.2 ★★★★★
Based on 14 reviews
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L
Verified Purchase
L. Yu
New York, US
★★★★★ 4
pretty good banana plugs
Size: 5 Pack, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
i bought these over 6 months ago and i just installed them to the front left and right floor standing speakers - sony ssf-7000 i have them for over 10 years hooked up to a yamaha 7.1 AVR. alot of people have had trouble installing this - one single banana plug comes in 3 parts - the bottom and top (the banana plug tip) can be unscrewed. what i did was tightened the top first (top being the tip of the banana plug) then unscrew the bottom off completely - make sure you have like 3/4" - 1" (depending on your gauge of wire) of exposed speaker wire that is straight - then thread it through the hole at the bottom up - i then rolled the exposed 3/4 - 1" exposed copper wiring into a ball that is bigger than the hole of the banana plug bottom piece so the wire doesn't fall back through where it came from. then i screwed on the top and middle piece back with the bottom piece - tightening it a bit so i know there's good contact. also make sure the tip is screwed in all the way as well as a double check. what you don't want to do is have the copper wire touch the threaded part of the bottom piece - the wire will cut off from the screwing action. i plugged it into my sony speakers and it wasn't a real snug fit - a bit too loose to feel secure - it didn't seem to go all the way in - but it fit fairly well in my receiver. my intention was to use these banana plugs with my 2 channel set up but i decided to go pre-constructed mediabridge 12 AWG speaker cable instead - those fit my 2 channel set up on my receiver and elacs really snug and secure. i tested it and it works fine. i didn't hear any loss of signal or any extraneous noise. none of my (14 awg?) wiring fell through the bottom and it sounds good. so no complaints there. i bought 5 pairs - but i find that it is an odd number to include a package - even numbered pairs would be better. anyway they seem constructed well - easy enough to install and they do work. thanks for reading
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Reviewed in the United States on September 12, 2019
A
Verified Purchase
AB
Carnegie, US
★★★★★ 5
High quality and robust
Size: 12 Pairs, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
Easily the best plugs I've found at a reasonable price. Solid feeling with good quality and they look good with easy to see red/black labeling. The tips tend to unscrew too easily, but this is a non-issue when they are in use, just something you have to be careful not to lose when assembling. It's a bit tricky to spread the wire out evenly at the exact right length. If screwing the plug together is hard at all, go back and shorten how much wire you bend over the lip.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 16, 2025
W
Verified Purchase
William
Charlottesville, US
★★★★★ 5
Solid banana clips
Size: 5 Pack, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
Ah yes, I used these solid banana plugs to convert my wires. It’s pretty easy to set up once the wire housing has been stripped and really cleans things up nicely. I haven’t had any discernable hissing, noise problems, or connection issues.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 25, 2026
L
Verified Purchase
Leyland Cypress
Belleville, US
★★★★★ 3
Get the right wire guage
Size: 1 Count (Pack of 1), Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
I rate the banana plugs themselves 4 stars. They are everything I expected and work as advertised. It's the experience of assembly that I rate three stars. The way these work is -- you strip off the outer insullation of your wire and separate the two leads (positive and negative). Then you strip some length of insulation off the end of one of your leads, you unscrew the banana plug so that it separates into its respective base (lower) and contact (upper) halves, you slip the wire up through the base, you flare the copper strands of the wire and fold the individual strands over the very top of the base (about 1/16 of an inch) (taking care not to extend the strands over the threaded barrel of the base), then you screw the upper contact onto the lower base and voila, banana plug / wire assembly. It's not as complicated as it sounds. Go to the Monoprice website and watch their excellent instructional video. Here's the thing though. While the assembly is not complicated, it is tricky, and if you don't get your proportions right the first or second or third time, you'll have to do it over. Fist of all, if your wire guage is relatively thin, like my 16-guage speaker wire, you'll find that the entire wire, insullation and all, will slip right through the base of the plug without butting up against the bottom of the base. If this is the case, then the wire is left to sort of flop around inside the plug and that has a kind of unfinished, amateur look and feel to it, whereas if the wire butts up against the bottom of the base, it has a solid, one-piece professional look. So, to my mind, there's a sweet-spot for wire guage that works best with this plug -- not too thin and not too thick. And since Monoprice has debunked the thicker-is-better myth (the quality of the copper is the real determinant), then you should feel free to get the wire guage that fits the plug. Next -- and here's where it gets tricky -- once your copper extends beyond the top of the base, you'll need to limit this extension to about a sixteenth (no greatrer than a fourth) of an inch. Then you very delicately flare out the individual strands, in a 360- degree arc, and fold the strands over the top of the base. This takes a fair degree of manual dexterity, especially if the wire is "floating" inside the base and its travel is not stopped where the insullation meets the base. You'll have to hold the wire and base steady in the fingers of one hand, then flare out the wire strands with either your fingers or a suitable object (the working end of a ball-point pen worked for me) with the other hand. This one-sixteenth measure is important. If you extend wire strands beyond the top and over the threads of the base, you'll find that screwing the contact end onto the base is impossible and you'll need to start over. One or two strands is OK and almost unavoidable. In that case the screwing will catch but if you take a pair of pliers to it you can muscle through. By the way, you can avoid the whole mess by getting the open-screw type, which I'm sure will work just as well without any of the hassle of assembly. Like anything else, if you do it a few times to make the mistakes and learn the tricks, then it will become second nature, and if you've already done that, then my review might seem overly fussy. In that case feel free to leave comments to help other readers.
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Reviewed in the United States on October 15, 2012
J
Verified Purchase
JBDoge
Port Orchard, US
★★★★★ 5
Wish they came with instructions...
They are cheap and work great. They plug right into my Pioneer vsx521 receiver and my Paradigm Atom monitor speakers. I wish they came with instructions, because it took me about 10 minutes to realize the bottom part unscrews in addition to the top part. Here are my instructions for installation: 1) Unscrew the bottom part of this connector (the thin metal underneath the red/black ring). 2) Make sure the Banana Plug (which may be loosely screwed into the top part of the connector) is fully tightened down 3) Strip your wire tips to 3/8 of an inch (or just slightly under) 4) Run the first newly stripped wire end through the bottom part you removed in step 1, such that the stripped end of the wire is entering through the flat end and exiting through the smaller threaded end. 5) Leave about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch of stripped wire hanging past the exit hole. 6) As evenly spaced as possible, bend the over-hanging wire strands over the exit hole (all around it, like a hat). If done properly, the wire should not fall out if you give it a VERY GENTLE tug. 7) Screw the top metal part (with the actual banana plug) back onto the bottom part. It may be difficult if your stripped wire is hanging too low. I've used a pair of pliers to grip the bottom part of the connector while I twist the banana plug side with my hand. If done correctly, you should be able to put a lot of tension between the wire and connector without removing/damaging it. UPDATE: I just recently helped my dad install his 5.1 system without these... it sucked... This item (5 pairs of them in this case) and a good wire stripper can save you alot of pain (both physical and mental). The connectors on the back of his receiver are the kind where bare wire comes in from the side and then the connectors screw down (with a banana plug hole in the center which is where this product would come into play). I felt like a surgeon trying to get a bare wire end into the little slot, and then holding it there while I tighten the connector which is almost impossible since they are so close together... GET THESE!
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Reviewed in the United States on February 8, 2012

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